Author Archives: admin
Maya Wheel Turquoise Necklace
Maya Wheel Turquoise Necklace
Maya Wheel Turquoise Necklace
Maya Wheel Turquoise Necklace
Compote on Stand
Here’s a lidded compote on a separate stand, perfect for parties. It was thrown at the wheel, and decorated with stamps and carving at soft leather-hard stage. 14″ Tall, $250.00. This piece is available.
Compote on Stand
Here’s a lidded compote on a separate stand, perfect for parties. It was thrown at the wheel, and decorated with stamps and carving at soft leather-hard stage. 14″ Tall, $250.00. This piece is available.
Salt-Fired Porcelain Teapot
This is a sweet little 3-cup teapot, with just a hint of copper blush. 5″ Tall, $85.
Salt-Fired Porcelain Teapot
This is a sweet little 3-cup teapot, with just a hint of copper blush. 5″ Tall, $85.
Salt Fired Coffee Cup
A porcelain coffee cup from my March 3, 2013 firing. Beautiful purple-blue glaze inside, with pretty little flecks from the tin. 4.5″ Tall, $40, Sold, others available.
Salt Fired Coffee Cup
A porcelain coffee cup from my March 3, 2013 firing. Beautiful purple-blue glaze inside, with pretty little flecks from the tin. 4.5″ Tall, $40, Sold, others available.
Handbuilding with Stiff Porcelain Slabs
I’m still in the process of creating a new Insomnia Pottery website where my pottery blog will live. In the meantime, I am doing my blogging at another website. I just did a post over there about some handbuilt work
Handbuilding with Stiff Porcelain Slabs
I’m still in the process of creating a new Insomnia Pottery website where my pottery blog will live. In the meantime, I am doing my blogging at another website. I just did a post over there about some handbuilt work
Ginger, terrified, plays with fire again….
It’s been twenty-four hours since I salted my kiln and shut it down last night, and the temperature is still about 900 degrees on top. It was a good firing, with a steady climb to 2250 F, the temperature I
Ginger, terrified, plays with fire again….
It’s been twenty-four hours since I salted my kiln and shut it down last night, and the temperature is still about 900 degrees on top. It was a good firing, with a steady climb to 2250 F, the temperature I
Stamps and Rollers
It’s easy to add texture to clay with stamps and rollers. I make them from clay – after bisque firing they are ready to use. This piece of textured clay became the body for a coffee pot….
Stamps and Rollers
It’s easy to add texture to clay with stamps and rollers. I make them from clay – after bisque firing they are ready to use. This piece of textured clay became the body for a coffee pot….
Crystals in Twice-Fired Bowl
Once in a while, a piece gets a second trip through the salt kiln. My oatmeal liner glaze does crazy things the second time around…
Crystals in Twice-Fired Bowl
Once in a while, a piece gets a second trip through the salt kiln. My oatmeal liner glaze does crazy things the second time around…
Gold-Edge Platter
This 13″ platter started out on the wheel, and was trimmed when leather hard. It was wrapped in plastic for several days so moisture could even out, and then carved by hand. After bisque firing, slips were applied to enhance
Gold-Edge Platter
This 13″ platter started out on the wheel, and was trimmed when leather hard. It was wrapped in plastic for several days so moisture could even out, and then carved by hand. After bisque firing, slips were applied to enhance
Salt Fired Porcelain Boxes
Here are some of the nicest pieces from my March 3, 2013 firing. These boxes were handbuilt from Georgies’ Crystal Springs porcelain, and were patterned in the leatherhard state with a small carving tool. They have a rich flambe blue
Salt Fired Porcelain Boxes
Here are some of the nicest pieces from my March 3, 2013 firing. These boxes were handbuilt from Georgies’ Crystal Springs porcelain, and were patterned in the leatherhard state with a small carving tool. They have a rich flambe blue
Porcelain, the risks and rewards considered…
I’ve been looking at those porcelain pots for a couple of days now. The best of them were priced and packed off to my show yesterday. During the process of sanding the traces of wadding from each foot, and checking
Porcelain, the risks and rewards considered…
I’ve been looking at those porcelain pots for a couple of days now. The best of them were priced and packed off to my show yesterday. During the process of sanding the traces of wadding from each foot, and checking
After the fun of firing….
I can’t imagine how I could load my kiln with conventional kiln shelves. I use only recrystallized silicon carbide shelves, bar-stock, and posts in my firings. After each firing, I carefully sand each piece by hand, removing bubbled glaze –
After the fun of firing….
I can’t imagine how I could load my kiln with conventional kiln shelves. I use only recrystallized silicon carbide shelves, bar-stock, and posts in my firings. After each firing, I carefully sand each piece by hand, removing bubbled glaze –
Making White… salt-fired porcelain
I really enjoy carving on this white porcelain clay. This is a teapot form that I have thrown for many years, with a nice deep lid and and a handbuilt spout. It holds about four cups of tea.
Making White… salt-fired porcelain
I really enjoy carving on this white porcelain clay. This is a teapot form that I have thrown for many years, with a nice deep lid and and a handbuilt spout. It holds about four cups of tea.
Butter Dish
Here’s a two-piece domed butter dish, thrown at the wheel. After careful trimming and the application of a knob, the pieces are dried together to the correct state for carving. A geometric pattern divides the space, and dot-filled squares divide
Butter Dish
Here’s a two-piece domed butter dish, thrown at the wheel. After careful trimming and the application of a knob, the pieces are dried together to the correct state for carving. A geometric pattern divides the space, and dot-filled squares divide
Large Oval Hand Built Teapot
Previously textured tapered sections were joined with plain clay rectangles to form the body of this large teapot. An oval bottom was applied to the conic body form, defining the final shape. A clay slab oval matching the top opening
Large Oval Hand Built Teapot
Previously textured tapered sections were joined with plain clay rectangles to form the body of this large teapot. An oval bottom was applied to the conic body form, defining the final shape. A clay slab oval matching the top opening
Casserole on Service Plate
Here’s a large, lidded casserole that has a charger or service plate to match. Plate, casserole, and lid were thrown at the wheel from stoneware clay. Handles were applied to the casserole while it was still very soft for best
Casserole on Service Plate
Here’s a large, lidded casserole that has a charger or service plate to match. Plate, casserole, and lid were thrown at the wheel from stoneware clay. Handles were applied to the casserole while it was still very soft for best
Oval Hand Built Teapot
This teapot was hand built from four tapered body sections. An oval clay cutout was applied to the top rim to finish it, and a larger oval was applied to form the bottom. Four beveled feet were applied as the teapot stiffened.
Oval Hand Built Teapot
This teapot was hand built from four tapered body sections. An oval clay cutout was applied to the top rim to finish it, and a larger oval was applied to form the bottom. Four beveled feet were applied as the teapot stiffened.
Hand-built Teapot
This substantial teapot was hand built using a comic pattern. After the pieces were cut, texture was applied with roller tools. A spout made on a mandrel and a pulled handle were added. The lid was also hand built, and
Hand-built Teapot
This substantial teapot was hand built using a comic pattern. After the pieces were cut, texture was applied with roller tools. A spout made on a mandrel and a pulled handle were added. The lid was also hand built, and
Incised Pitcher
12″ tall, this pitcher was intended for daily use. It was thrown at the wheel, and its’ spout was pulled from the pitcher body about half an hour later. After trimming, a throat was shaped in the still-soft clay to
Incised Pitcher
12″ tall, this pitcher was intended for daily use. It was thrown at the wheel, and its’ spout was pulled from the pitcher body about half an hour later. After trimming, a throat was shaped in the still-soft clay to
Salt and Pepper Shakers
Two little salt and pepper shakers sit in their own hand-built box. Made from thin textured slabs, the pieces had additional stamping and carving added at the correct stage of dryness. Small false bottoms conceal rubber stoppers. Bisque was painted
Salt and Pepper Shakers
Two little salt and pepper shakers sit in their own hand-built box. Made from thin textured slabs, the pieces had additional stamping and carving added at the correct stage of dryness. Small false bottoms conceal rubber stoppers. Bisque was painted
Hand-Built Ewer on Plate
This pouring vessel was made from slabs of clay cut using a conic templates. The spout was formed on a mandrel and applied to the teapot. The handle was pulled from the teapot the day after it was formed.
Hand-Built Ewer on Plate
This pouring vessel was made from slabs of clay cut using a conic templates. The spout was formed on a mandrel and applied to the teapot. The handle was pulled from the teapot the day after it was formed.
Stoneware Casserole
This casserole was formed on the wheel, and pattern was carved into the surface after trimming. Extruded lugs were attached when the casserole was very wet for best attachment. After bisque firing, the casserole was glazed on interior surfaces, painted
Stoneware Casserole
This casserole was formed on the wheel, and pattern was carved into the surface after trimming. Extruded lugs were attached when the casserole was very wet for best attachment. After bisque firing, the casserole was glazed on interior surfaces, painted
Milkweed Vase
This vase was thrown from stoneware clay, trimmed, and hand decorated with a floral pattern after several days of drying. Slips were painted onto the bisqued clay, and the vase was fired to cone 10 in a salt kiln. $125,
Milkweed Vase
This vase was thrown from stoneware clay, trimmed, and hand decorated with a floral pattern after several days of drying. Slips were painted onto the bisqued clay, and the vase was fired to cone 10 in a salt kiln. $125,
Sugar Bowl
This little sugar bowl was thrown at the wheel, and then decorated with by the application of a floral and geometric pattern. It was painted with slips. and fired in the salt kiln to Cone 10. $48, 5″ diameter, 4″
Sugar Bowl
This little sugar bowl was thrown at the wheel, and then decorated with by the application of a floral and geometric pattern. It was painted with slips. and fired in the salt kiln to Cone 10. $48, 5″ diameter, 4″
Dogwood Vase
Thrown on the wheel, this vase is 12″ tall. After trimming and careful drying, dogwood imagery was carved into the pot. After bisque firing, slips were painted onto the vase to accentuate the design. $125, Sold, others available.
Dogwood Vase
Thrown on the wheel, this vase is 12″ tall. After trimming and careful drying, dogwood imagery was carved into the pot. After bisque firing, slips were painted onto the vase to accentuate the design. $125, Sold, others available.
Finishing the Goblets….
The goblet pieces needed a couple of days to dry slowly under plastic. Here’s a nice stem ready for trimming. I have several small Dolan trim tools that make this easy. The base of the stem is still massive and
Finishing the Goblets….
The goblet pieces needed a couple of days to dry slowly under plastic. Here’s a nice stem ready for trimming. I have several small Dolan trim tools that make this easy. The base of the stem is still massive and
Still Makin’ Pots – Goblets Today….
Thanks to all of you who have encouraged me to post process and work on my Insomnia Pottery blog. It’s been a long since my last post, but I continue to receive emails from potters who have found it useful.
Still Makin’ Pots – Goblets Today….
Thanks to all of you who have encouraged me to post process and work on my Insomnia Pottery blog. It’s been a long since my last post, but I continue to receive emails from potters who have found it useful.
Some Finished Knobs, and a Report on the New Salt Kiln
Yes, I finally did fire some of those knobs that I was blogging about back in January and February. I have been busy with other clay projects, daily work at my nursery business, and with learning to use my new
Some Finished Knobs, and a Report on the New Salt Kiln
Yes, I finally did fire some of those knobs that I was blogging about back in January and February. I have been busy with other clay projects, daily work at my nursery business, and with learning to use my new
Building a New Teapot Form…
I’ve been thinking about handbuilding some new teapot forms for my summer shows. I like to apply patterns to my clay while it’s flat and helpless… much easier than individually incising whole pots. I also think that teapot users like
Building a New Teapot Form…
I’ve been thinking about handbuilding some new teapot forms for my summer shows. I like to apply patterns to my clay while it’s flat and helpless… much easier than individually incising whole pots. I also think that teapot users like
Deteriorating Salt Kiln Requires Rebuilding….
I’ve fired my salt kiln 77 times in the past five years. I thought in the early years that I might get 100 firings, but the condition of the kiln is beginning to concern me and it’s clear that it’s
Deteriorating Salt Kiln Requires Rebuilding….
I’ve fired my salt kiln 77 times in the past five years. I thought in the early years that I might get 100 firings, but the condition of the kiln is beginning to concern me and it’s clear that it’s
Finishing up the Knobs…
Here are the blank knobs that were thrown at the wheel last week, with a little bit of incising added. I will probably make most of my knobs from low fire clay, especially those I need for my kitchen that
Finishing up the Knobs…
Here are the blank knobs that were thrown at the wheel last week, with a little bit of incising added. I will probably make most of my knobs from low fire clay, especially those I need for my kitchen that
Knobs, Continued…..
Here’s a nice little trim chuck for trimming the knobs I made the other day. It has a broad surface to support the knobs, and adhere to them while they are trimmed. It will make a pleasing small vase after
Knobs, Continued…..
Here’s a nice little trim chuck for trimming the knobs I made the other day. It has a broad surface to support the knobs, and adhere to them while they are trimmed. It will make a pleasing small vase after
Making Handmade Ceramic Knobs
As many of you know, I have been making tile for my kitchen as part of a home remodel. Most of the tile is complete, and some is installed. In my dining area, there are beautiful new oak cabinets that
Making Handmade Ceramic Knobs
As many of you know, I have been making tile for my kitchen as part of a home remodel. Most of the tile is complete, and some is installed. In my dining area, there are beautiful new oak cabinets that
Making Ceramic Knobs for Cabinets
As many of you know, I have been making tile for my kitchen as part of a home remodel. The tile is nearly done, and installation has started. In the dining area of my home are beautiful new oak cabinets
Making Ceramic Knobs for Cabinets
As many of you know, I have been making tile for my kitchen as part of a home remodel. The tile is nearly done, and installation has started. In the dining area of my home are beautiful new oak cabinets
Tile Making for My Home
For the next month or so, I will be creating tile for my own home. I’m going to be making a door surround for my front door – a 12″-14″ border that will wrap both sides and the top of
Tile Making for My Home
For the next month or so, I will be creating tile for my own home. I’m going to be making a door surround for my front door – a 12″-14″ border that will wrap both sides and the top of
Making a Handbuilt Spout
First, a template is used to cut conditioned clay into a conic spout-shaped form. The clay is softer than what I use for most handbuilding – this will permit the spout to be curved without any cracking of the clay.
Making a Handbuilt Spout
First, a template is used to cut conditioned clay into a conic spout-shaped form. The clay is softer than what I use for most handbuilding – this will permit the spout to be curved without any cracking of the clay.
State of the Reliquary and Notes from the Workshop
Here are some cups and teapots made by potters at the workshop in my studio this past Saturday. White earthenware clay – LF06 from Seattle Pottery Supply – was used to build these pieces. Participants worked with conditioned clay slab,
State of the Reliquary and Notes from the Workshop
Here are some cups and teapots made by potters at the workshop in my studio this past Saturday. White earthenware clay – LF06 from Seattle Pottery Supply – was used to build these pieces. Participants worked with conditioned clay slab,
Some other handbuilt pottery….
Here are some really big jars that are handbuilt. The shoulder and lids for these are thrown and added later.
Some other handbuilt pottery….
Here are some really big jars that are handbuilt. The shoulder and lids for these are thrown and added later.
Making a Reliquary, Part 1
This week, I am beginning an interesting new ceramic piece. I am making a latex texture mat, which has text and imagery that will be incorporated into a funereal reliquary. The reliquary will be used for the ashes of two
Making a Reliquary, Part 1
This week, I am beginning an interesting new ceramic piece. I am making a latex texture mat, which has text and imagery that will be incorporated into a funereal reliquary. The reliquary will be used for the ashes of two
Step 9 – Finishing the Handle
Here’s where we left off in the last post, just having gently pressed the new, soft handle onto the scored spot that was prepared before the handle pulling started. The handle is very tender at this point, and it’s easy
Step 9 – Finishing the Handle
Here’s where we left off in the last post, just having gently pressed the new, soft handle onto the scored spot that was prepared before the handle pulling started. The handle is very tender at this point, and it’s easy
Step 8 – Pulling the Handle
Here, I am holding the cup with its’ handle stub attached perpendicular to the floor. What you can’t see is that my right hand is in a container of water. First, I use my wet thumb to refine the join
Step 8 – Pulling the Handle
Here, I am holding the cup with its’ handle stub attached perpendicular to the floor. What you can’t see is that my right hand is in a container of water. First, I use my wet thumb to refine the join
Step 7 – Attaching the Handle
I can hear the groans about pulled handles resounding through cyberspace. Potters, this can be learned easily with practice.Start with some nice, fresh clay – not reclaim. Roll out a fat coil about 1.25″ in diameter for these big mugs.
Step 7 – Attaching the Handle
I can hear the groans about pulled handles resounding through cyberspace. Potters, this can be learned easily with practice.Start with some nice, fresh clay – not reclaim. Roll out a fat coil about 1.25″ in diameter for these big mugs.
Step 6 – Measuring and Attaching the Bottom
I have a set of nifty little round cutters – Ateco brand – that I purchased at a cookware store in Portland. I’m sure you could get them on the net…. I pick out a likely one and check it
Step 6 – Measuring and Attaching the Bottom
I have a set of nifty little round cutters – Ateco brand – that I purchased at a cookware store in Portland. I’m sure you could get them on the net…. I pick out a likely one and check it
Step 5 – Making a Cylinder from the Cup Blank
I use a section of paper mailing tube to “train” the cup blank to be round. I don’t wrap the blank around the mailing tube, I drape it over the tube in a horizontal position. I support the tube with
Step 5 – Making a Cylinder from the Cup Blank
I use a section of paper mailing tube to “train” the cup blank to be round. I don’t wrap the blank around the mailing tube, I drape it over the tube in a horizontal position. I support the tube with
Step 4 – Preparing the Edges of the Slab Blank
Using a serrated rib dipped in just enough water so it can be seen wetting the surface, carefully score the left edge of your cup blank. Be careful not to distort or thin the edge of the slab – we
Step 4 – Preparing the Edges of the Slab Blank
Using a serrated rib dipped in just enough water so it can be seen wetting the surface, carefully score the left edge of your cup blank. Be careful not to distort or thin the edge of the slab – we
Step 3 – Texturing the Cup Blank
Here, I am decorating the cup blanks with a variety of texture tools. The first image shows a nice brass roller from a bookbinding shop applying a row of dots. I make many of my texture tools from thrown rollers
Step 3 – Texturing the Cup Blank
Here, I am decorating the cup blanks with a variety of texture tools. The first image shows a nice brass roller from a bookbinding shop applying a row of dots. I make many of my texture tools from thrown rollers
Step 2 – Pressing the Edges of the Cup Blank
Now, use a small brayer to gently press the right and top edges of your 5″ x 10″ clay cup blanks. Now, carefully turn your blanks over and press the reverse sides of the top and right edges. This will
Step 2 – Pressing the Edges of the Cup Blank
Now, use a small brayer to gently press the right and top edges of your 5″ x 10″ clay cup blanks. Now, carefully turn your blanks over and press the reverse sides of the top and right edges. This will
Step 1 – Measuring the Cup Blanks
Here’s a slab that is about 12 x 12 inches. It’s dry to the touch, but still flexible. Shown is a quilter’s ruler that is really useful for doing handbuilding. With it, I will cut two rectangles that are 10″
Step 1 – Measuring the Cup Blanks
Here’s a slab that is about 12 x 12 inches. It’s dry to the touch, but still flexible. Shown is a quilter’s ruler that is really useful for doing handbuilding. With it, I will cut two rectangles that are 10″
Textural Mats
Here is a carved clay slab, and the textural mat that was made from it. I roll out 1/2″ thick slabs from LF06 clay, a nice low fire talc body that is smooth and grog free. When the slabs are
Textural Mats
Here is a carved clay slab, and the textural mat that was made from it. I roll out 1/2″ thick slabs from LF06 clay, a nice low fire talc body that is smooth and grog free. When the slabs are